तीसरी सुबह 16 अप्रेल को भी आंख जल्दी ही खुल गई। सूर्योदय का आनंद हमने उसी लॉन में बोगनविलिया के छज्जे के नीचे बैठकर चाय पीते हुए लिया। आज भी हमने पुतु को लगभग दस बजे बुलाया था ताकि हम सुबह का नाश्ता और दिन का खाना बनाकर अपने साथ ले सकें।
मूंछों वाले बंदर
ठीक दस बजे पुतु गाड़ी लेकर आ गया और हम उसके साथ चल पड़े। सबसे पहले वह हमें उलूवातू के प्रसिद्ध मंकी गार्डन में ले गया। यहाँ पूरे उद्यान में लाल मुंह के एवं अपेक्षाकृत छोटे आकार के बंदर हैं जिन की मूंछें देखकर आश्चर्य होता है। उस उद्यान में बंदरों एवं अन्य पशु-पक्षियों तथा जलचरों की बहुत सारी मूर्तियां हैं जो दर्शक का ध्यान बरबास ही अपनी ओर आकर्षित करती हैं। यहाँ बहुत सी नर-प्रतिमाएं ऐसी हैं जिनकी आंखें गेंद की तरह बिल्कुल गोल हैं। मोटे होठों और फूल हुए गालों वाली औरंगुटान की देहयष्टि वाली मनुष्य प्रतिमाएं यहाँ भी दर्शकों को आश्चर्य में डाल देती हैं। यहाँ एक भी प्रतिमा ऐसी नहीं है जिसे सामान्य माना जाए अथवा उसकी ओर ध्यान नहीं दिया जाएं कुछ पर्यटक बंदरों को खिलाने के लिए केले लाए थे। कुछ बंदर पर्यटकों के हाथों से केले लेकर शालीन भाव से खा रहे थे किंतु कई बंदर केलों को प्राप्त करने के लिए पर्यटकों के कंधों और सिर पर आकर बैठ रहे थे। यहाँ स्थित कुछ मूर्तियों को दखने से अनुमान हुआ कि इस वन के बंदर शताब्दियों से मनुष्यों के सिर पर बैठते आए हैं। हम लगभग दो घण्टे उबुद वानर वन में रुके। इस वन को देखने का अनुभव कभी न भुलाए जाने वाले अनुभवों में से है।
राजा का उदास महल
मूर्तियों एवं मूंछों वाले बंदरों के संसार से निकल कर हम कुता शहर के मुख्य भाग में आ गए जहाँ हमें कुता के प्राचीन शासक का महल देखने को मिला। महल का काफी हिस्सा खण्डहर हो गया है तथा जो कुछ भी ठीक-ठाक अवस्था में है, वह लगभग बंद कर दिया गया है। यह लाल रंग की ईंटों से बना हुआ भवन समूह है। इन ईंटों का निर्माण भारत में बनने वाली ईंटों के समान प्रतीत होता हैं अर्थात् कच्चे गारे से बनी की ईंटों को तेज आंच में पकाया गया है। पूरा महल अपनी भव्यता को खोकर उदास सा खड़ा हुआ प्रतीत होता है।
जन सामान्य के बीच नृत्य-नाटिका का अभ्यास
इस महल के एक हिस्से में कुछ स्थानीय महिला एवं पुरुष कलाकार इण्डोनेशियाई भाषा में किसी नृत्य-नाटिका का अभ्यास कर रहे थे। निकट बने लकड़ी के एक बड़े मण्डप में बहुत से कलाकार विविध प्रकार के वाद्ययंत्र बजा रहे थे। इनमें से अधिकांश वाद्ययंत्रों की आकृतियां भारतीय वाद्ययंत्रों से मेल नहीं खातीं। संसार के विभिन्न देशों से आए हुए दर्जनों पर्यटक इन कलाकारों को देखने के लिए उन्हें घेरा बनाकर खड़े थे। यह देखकर बहुत अच्छा लग रहा था कि यहाँ नृत्य-नाटिकाओं के कलाकार खुले स्थान पर आकर अभ्यास करते हैं जबकि भारत में इस प्रकार का अभ्यास प्रायः बंद कमरों में किया जाता है।
इतिहास एवं संस्कृति की पुस्तकें
इस महल के चारों ओर, कुता का अत्यंत व्यस्त बाजार है। महल से लगभग एक फर्लांग की दूरी पर हमें एक बड़ा बुक-स्टोर मिला जिसमें इण्डोनेशिया के इतिहास एवं संस्कृति से सम्बन्धित कई पुस्तकें उपलब्ध थीं। अन्य वस्तुओं की तरह किताबें भी बहुत महंगी थीं। फिर भी हमने अपनी पसंद की कुछ पुस्तकें चुन लीं।
कलाकृ तियों की दुकानों में सन्नाटा
यहाँ से पुतु हमें टैरेस फील्ड्स की तरफ ले गया जहाँ पहाड़ियों की ढलानों को सीढ़ी की तरह समतल बनाकर वहाँ चावल की खेती की जाती है। वहाँ तक जाने के लिए हमें एक नगरीय क्षेत्र से होकर निकलना पड़ा। यह देखकर हमारे आश्चर्य का पार नहीं था कि सड़क के दोनों ओर सजावटी कलाकृतियों की सैंकड़ों दुकानें स्थित थीं। बांस, लकड़ी तथा अन्य सामग्री से बनी कलाकृतियां। अत्यंत सुंदर पेंटिंग, सैंकड़ों तरह के समुद्री जीवों के खोल, रंग-बिरंगे आभूषण, क्या नहीं था वहाँ!
इनमें से आधी से अधिक दुकानें बंद थीं तथा खुली हुई दुकानों में भी शायद ही किसी दुकान पर कोई ग्राहक खड़ा हुआ दिखाई दिया। यह बाली के लोगों के जीवन की वास्तविकता थी। यहाँ बहुत से परिवारों की आजीविका पर्यटकों के आगमन पर टिकी हुई है। चूंकि यह पर्यटकों के आने का मौसम नहीं था और बाली द्वीप पर बहुत कम पर्यटक मौजूद थे इसलिए इन दुकानों पर सन्नाटा था।
राइस टैरेस फील्ड्स
यह एक पहाड़ी क्षेत्र था, यहाँ बहुत सघन वनावली के बीच, चावल के टैरेस फील्ड्स स्थित थे। कुछ खेतों में किसान काम कर रहे थे। उनकी नुकीली शंक्वाकार टोपियां देखने वाले का मन मोह लेती हैं। हमें लग रहा था जैसे हम अलग ही संसार में आ गए हैं। पुतु ने एक स्थान पर गाड़ी रोककर हमें वहाँ से पैदल चलकर पहाड़ी उतरने तथा लगभग आधा किलोमीटर दूर दिखाई दे रही पहाड़ी पर पहुंचकर टैरेस फील्ड्स का आनंद लेने के लिए कहा। हमने बहुत से पर्यटकों को वहाँ जाते हुए भी देखा। हमारे पैरों में इतनी शक्ति नहीं थी कि हम एक पहाड़ी उतर कर और दूसरी पहाड़ी चढ़कर वहाँ तक पहुंचें और फिर इतना ही चलकर लौटें। इसलिए हमने वहाँ जाना टाल दिया तथा अगले गंतव्य के लिए चलने का अनुरोध किया।
जंगल में मंगल
थोड़ी देर चलने पर चावल के खेतों की शृंखला समाप्त हो गई तथा सघन पहाड़ियां आरम्भ हो गईं। यहाँ इतना सघन वन था कि हरीतिमा अपने चरम पर पहुंच गई प्रतीत होती थी। हमने पुतु से अनुरोध किया कि किसी स्थान पर गाड़ी रोक ले जहाँ हम दोपहर का भोजन कर सकें। पुतु यहाँ के चप्पे-चप्पे से परिचित था। शीघ्र ही उसने सड़क के किनारे बने एक मंदिर के निकट स्थित बरामदे को तलाश लिया। यहाँ कोई मनुष्य नहीं था। मंदिर पर ताला पड़ा हुआ था तथा बारामदा भी पूरी तरह खाली था। हमने वहीं बैठकर भोजन करने का निर्णय लिया। जंगल में परिवार के साथ बैठकर इस प्रकार भोजन करने का हमारा यह पहला ही अवसर था। इस भोजन में ऐसा स्वाद आया जिसका वर्णन करना संभव नहीं है।
दान-पुण्य एवं पूजा वाली थाली
जहाँ बैठकर हमने भोजन किया, उसके निकट एक बंद दुकान थी जिसके बाहर लगे सूचीपट्ट से ज्ञात होता था कि यहाँ नारियल, पुष्प एवं अन्य पूजन सामग्री बिकती थी। इस सूचीपट्ट पर रोमन लिपि में यह शीर्षक अंकित था- ”दान पुण्य पूजा वाली रिंग पुरा दालेम” अर्थात् दान-पुण्य एवं मंदिर में पूजा की गोल थाली की वस्तुओं के मूल्य। इस सूची की वस्तुओं के नाम तो मेरी समझ में नहीं आए किंतु उनकी दरों को पढ़कर सहज ही समझा जा सकता था कि ये बहुत महंगी थीं।
चूजे के करतब
हम भोजन कर ही रहे थे कि किसी पक्षी का एक रंगीन चूजा कहीं से भटक कर हमारे पास आ गया। यह चटख पीले रंग का पक्षी था जो उड़ नहीं सकता था। जैसे ही डेढ़ साल की दीपा की दृष्टि उस पर पड़ी, वह उसके पीछे लग गई। चूजा भी जैसे उसी के साथ खेलने आया। वह गोल-गोल घूमता हुआ दीपा को अपने पीछे दौड़ाने लगा। दीपा ने बहुत प्रयास किया किंतु उसे पकड़ नहीं सकी। जब दीपा थककर रुक जाती, चूजा उसके पास आकर खड़ा हो जाता और दीपा फिर से उसे पकड़ने के लिए दौड़ पड़ती। यह क्रम काफी देर तक चला।
देवता का थान
भोजन करने के बाद हम लोग ऐसे ही थोड़ा बहुत पैदल चलकर जंगल देखने लगे। मैंने देखा कि निकट ही एक अन्य चबूतरा बना हुआ था जिसके चारों ओर लगभग डेढ़ फुट ऊंची चारदीवारी थी। मैं उत्सुकतावश उसके निकट चला गया। चबूतरे पर एक छोटा सा देवरा बना हुआ था जिसमें पत्थर की एक अनगढ़ प्रतिमा रखी थी। थान के पीछे की ओर एक लम्बा पेड़ खड़ा था जिससे देवालय पर छाया हो रही थी। यह लगभग वैसा ही था जिस प्रकार राजस्थान में खेजड़ी के नीचे गोगाजी और बायासां के थान होते हैं। मैंने इस थान की कई तस्वीरें उतारीं।
इन्द्र का मंदिर
जंगल में लंच का आनंद उठाकर हम फिर से पुतु की गाड़ी में चल पड़े। इस बार वह हमें पहाड़ों के बीच बने एक मंदिर ले गया। यह इन्द्र को समर्पित एक प्राचीन मंदिर था। मंदिर तक पहुंचने के लिए काफी सीढ़ियां नीचे उतरना पड़ता और वापस ऊपर चढ़ना पड़ता। इसके लिए हमारे दल के सदस्य तैयार नहीं थे। हमारी अन्यमनस्कता का एक कारण यह भी था कि इस छोटे से मंदिर को देखने के लिए हमें अच्छी-खासी राशि व्यय करके टिकट खरीदने पड़ते। भारतीय होने के कारण हमें मंदिर में प्रवेश के लिए टिकट खरीदना जंच नहीं रहा था। गाड़ी खड़ी करने के लिए अलग से टिकट लेना पड़ रहा था। इसलिए हमने मंदिर तक उतरने का विचार त्याग दिया और मंदिर परिसर तथा भवन को ऊपर सड़क पर खड़े होकर देखा। यह एक अत्यंत प्राचीन मंदिर जान पड़ता था। बाली की परम्परा के अनुसार पूरा मंदिर काले पत्थर का बना हुआ था जिसकी दीवारों पर उगी हुई काई यह बता रही थी कि यहाँ अत्यधिक वर्षा होती है तथा दीवारें वर्ष में अधिकांश दिनों में भीगी रहती हैं। मंदिर परिसर में बने जल-कुण्ड और उनमें कमल के पुष्प इस तरह का दृश्य उत्पन्न कर रहे थे जिस तरह के दृश्यों का अंकन भगवान वेदव्यास ने महाभारत में कई स्थानों पर किया है। विशेषकर यक्ष-प्रश्न वाले प्रकरण में।
झरने से निराशा
पुतु ने हमें एक प्राकृतिक जल प्रपात तक ले जाने का निर्णय लिया। यह बहुत हरा-भरा पहाड़ी स्थान था। यहाँ भी इण्डोनेशियाई सरकार के पर्यटन विभाग ने टिकट लगा रखा था। गाड़ी खड़ी करने के लिए भी अलग से राशि चुकानी पड़ती थी।
चूंकि हमने सुबह से केवल गाड़ी में भ्रमण किया था तथा पैदल चलकर किसी भी स्थान को निकट से नहीं देखा था। इसलिए यहाँ हमने रुकने का निर्णय लिया। लगभग आधा किलोमीटर तक पैदल चलकर तथा कुछ सीढ़ियां उतर कर हम उस स्थान पर पहुंचे जहाँ से झरना दिखाई देता था। इस पूरे मार्ग में बहुत से रेस्टोरेंट थे जिनमें नारियल, ब्लैक कॉफी, कोल्ड ड्रिंक्स, चिकन, फिश, आमलेट जैसी बहुत सी चीजें बिक रही थीं किंतु इनमें से एक भी चीज हमारे काम की नहीं थी। हम चाय पीना चाहते थे किंतु बाली में चाय, वह भी दूध वाली चाय का मिलना असंभव जैसा ही था।
जिस स्थान से झरना दिखाई देता था, मैं और पिताजी वहीं रुक गए। मधु, बच्चों को साथ लेकर झरने के निकट तक गई। झरना यहाँ से लगभग एक किलोमीटर और दूर था। यह इतना छोटा था कि मुझे लगा कि इससे बड़े झरने तो वर्षाकाल में रेगिस्तान के बीच स्थित अरणा-झरणा की पहाड़ियों में दिखाई देते हैं। यह देखकर अफसोस हुआ कि इसे दिखाने के लिए भी इण्डोनेशियाई सरकार पर्यटकों से टिकट के पैसे वसूल रही है। लगभग एक घण्टे बाद मधु ने लौटकर बताया कि यह स्थान उनके लिए है जो शराब पीकर झरने में नहाने का आनंद लेना चाहते हैं। नीचे शराब की कुछ दुकानें हैं जहाँ से यूरोपीय पर्यटक शराब खरीद रहे हैं और झरने में नहा रहे हैं।
सर्विस अपार्टमेंट को वापसी
शाम के लगभग तीन बज चुके थे। हम सर्विस अपार्टमेंट के लिए लौट पड़े। यहाँ से मैंगवी लगभग दो घण्टे की दूरी पर था। वहाँ पहुंचते-पहुंचते सूर्य देव का प्रकाश कम होने लगा। सर्विस अपार्टमेंट में पहुंचते ही भानु ने चाय बनाई और हमने उसी शीशे वाले बरामदे के सामने बने लॉन में बैठकर पी जो सीधा चावल के खेतों में खुलता था। गर्म चाय पाकर आनंद का कोई पार नहीं था। हमें पुतु ने बताया कि अगले दिन हम एक-दो मंदिर तथा समुद्र-तट देख सकते हैं किंतु हमने अगला दिन विश्राम के लिए निर्धारित किया। हमें जोधपुर से चले लगभग एक सप्ताह हो गया था और अब हमें आराम की जरूरत थी। अब तक जो कुछ भी देखा था, उसे भी लिपिबद्ध करने की आवश्यकता थी। इसलिए हमने पुत्तु से कहा कि वह अगले दिन न आए।
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